Three super tough ‘new’ lines to report from the Lakes, and as is becoming a regular theme when it comes to first ascents in the upper 8’s, Aidan Roberts is the man in the spotlight.
First up we have big new 8B on the Rocking Spectre boulder, up at Dove Crag, Patterdale. This block resides in the midst of the boulder field, which itself adorns the gully below the main crag. The Rocking Spectre is an excellent 8B, courtesy of Dan Varian, which tackles the the right side of the main downhill face. Aidan’s new problem – Out of the Shadows (8B) – conjures a sequence through the even more imposing board-style face to the left, starting from sitting on a tilted block and utilising poor undercuts to get going. A truly fabulous looking climb! Header image.
At the Bowderstone, Aidan has also climbed the low Ladder Face traverse in either direction. Slim Pickings (8B) is the left to right and starts as for Inaudible Vaudeville SDS before traversing rightwards, keeping as low as possible, into the rail and on to the start of Move Man then finishing up this. Back for Seconds, also 8B, tackles the right to left and starts below Move Man before essentially reversing the aforementioned line until it is possible to finish up Picnic Sarcastic.
All the described ascents are beautifully recorded in Wedge Climbing’s recent film, “King Lines & 8B First Ascents” available to view here…
Not sure how the start and traverse of Rising Damp was 2/3 grades easier when I did it in 98, as none of the holds have changed! Or at least hadn’t when last there earlier this year. Not sure what the purpose of the claim is here or is it just wishful thinking that non one was climbing that hard back then. Well apart from Gaskins that is. Happy to meet at the bowderstone and have a look again with any one who would like this cleared up.
Aidan has done 2 incredibly hard traverses, so please don’t think I am trying to take anything away from that.
Hi Neil, the information regarding Rising Damp was only provided to offer an example of how the lines on the Stone have always been prone to change through hold breakage. No disrespect was meant and the info was based on information I seem to remember being given by locals (along with similar info on other lines) back in the early to late 2000s. If I’m misremembering, my apologise. I’ve edited the post accordingly. Cheers, Greg