Big Link on the Bowderstone

Written by Greg Chapman Sunday, 12 September 2010 08:30

As bouldering has become ever more popular in the Lakes, and the depth of strong climbers visiting the area has increased, the frequency of new and quality lines being climbed has become less and less the norm, especially at well trodden, classic roadside venues. It is with this in mind that I cheerfully bring you news of a superb new line on the Bowderstone.

Dan Turner has completed the impressive link-up of Lateral Gruntings, into Grand Opera and on to finish as per Final Curtain. This mouth watering epic takes in pretty much the whole of the Ladder Face, and whilst many have touted the left to right traverse of the face as the last great line (which of course it is), I have always thought that the line and flow of climbing on Dan’s new link to be the main attraction for those seeking an epic link up project on the Stone.

In true understated north Lakes fashion, Dan has simply named his new creation The Link, and reckoned on a grade of top end 8a+/V12, although a route grade may be more appropriate for this sucker.

It would seem that a recent trip to the Swiss venue of Magic Wood may have been the catalyst for Dan’s ascent, as he had been trying the line for some time. Dan explains: “I just got back from a successful trip to Magic Wood and while I was feeling strong I figured I should finally finish off Lateral Gruntings into Final Curtain. I had one go yesterday [05/09/10] and got pretty close, and today went back and did it second go. I am pretty sure it is a first ascent so named it The Link as that’s how everyone refers to it. I think the grade is hard 8a+ and for sure the hardest thing I have done to date.”

Image: Joe Le Sage on Grand Opera, which is the central crux of The Link 8a+/V12. © Tim Stubley