Fowl Play on the West Coast

Written by Greg Chapman Sunday, 13 June 2010 17:08

Thanks to a cracking day’s weather on Saturday, I managed to nail a couple of good new lines at St. Bees Head - South. Both problems are at the first sector reached (approaching along the coast), and add a couple of good harder problems to a sector which is looking increasing worth a pit stop on your way to the popular central sector.

The main event, in terms of difficulty at least, is on the right hand block of the two boulders know as “The Pair” on the Google overview map, and tackles the project line left of Toxic Crusader. Starting from sitting at the interestingly formed and obvious side pull, use this and a shallow mono to pull on and make a big slap for a poor hold on the sloping lip, match (with interest) and continue direct. This is Fowl Play and is around the 7c/V9 to 7c+/V10 area, although I’d been keen to get some feedback before committing to a grade.

In the small inlet between Toxic Crusader and Drunken Sailor, there is an obvious right to left lip traverse on the large low block on the inlet platform. This is Death Drives a Taxi and is a great problem going at 7a+/V7, with the crux being the last move, i.e. rocking onto the slab.

Right: Fowl Play (7c/+)