Gillercombe & Carrock 7's

Written by LakesBloc Tuesday, 20 April 2010 11:51

In Borrowdale, at the Sour Milk Ghyll boulders (part of the Gillercombe circuit); Tom Newberry has added a couple of smart additions. First up he added a cool climb just right of Tau Zero. This pulls on via a crimp and poor pinch before making an explosive move to a good break and trending up and left to finish, giving The 2% Rule, 7a/V6. Incidentally, the crimp on this line had been improved (by persons unknown) after some serious over wire brushing, presumably to gain an edge (no pun intended) on Tau Zero. Fortunately, this has had little effect on the grade of Tau Zero, which still holds its worth at 7c/V9.

Up the hill on "Mark's Boulder", Tom also added a great line to the main face. This starts up Deforestation, before sweeping right across the face to meet a good jug above a small block, then continuing up to a glorious rail which swings you back left to top out as for The Cloud Chamber. Tom as named this problem Rodox 78 and it goes at around the 7a+/V7 mark.

Right: Tom Newberry making the first ascent of Rodox 78.

Back East at Carrock Fell, Tim Carruthers found a corking little number on a block situated about 20 metres to the left of the boulder known as the "Medium Ball Boulder" in the Rockfax Lakes Bouldering guide, just left of the tree that separates the two blocks. This starts on the right of the main face and traverses left (not using the lip), and encounters a stopper move to a sloper at the half way point, after which nice moves give access to a top out aided by a "pancake flake". Tim has christened his creation Widescreen Entertainment, and potential suitors must tune in to channel 7a/V6.