Clench of the Tight Arse

Written by LakesBloc Thursday, 31 December 2009 00:00

As 2009 drew to a close, Dan Varian headed to St. Bees Head - North for another instalment of his long running battle with the sit down start to Clash of the Titans, at Apiary Wall. Dan hasn't sieged the line as such, however over the last year or two he has re-visited it on a number of occasions. As whilst the problem requires a good serving of strength, tension, and accuracy, in equal measure (all of which Dan has in abundance), perhaps the single most important element to success on the climb, is conditions – which can be pretty variable on the coast. Dan had been getting exceedingly close on a number of visits over the yuletide period, however, such is the tenuous nature of stringing the whole sequence together, he had been falling from the last couple of moves of the relatively amenable stand-up (7a+/V7).

On the last day of the year conditions were prime and Dan was feeling good. He dispatched the line quickly enough to have time enough to repeat Tom Peckitt’s recent addition, Lost Buoyz 7c/V9, as well as scoping out some “great” new projects.

As to a grade, Dan feels the conditions dependent nature of the climb could effect the difficulty a great deal, and as such the grade of 8a+/V12 is offered with the cautionary note that the line could feel as much as a grade harder or easier depending on the weather and sea conditions. Good stuff Dan, perhaps we should call you Perseus from now on?

Image: Dan Varian on Clash of the Titans SDS (8a+/V12).