Old Buoys Circuit - St. Bees

Written by LakesBloc Monday, 12 October 2009 00:00

Over the late summer months a ‘new' area was documented at St. Bees Head. The "Old Buoys Circuit" is situated north of the Apiary Wall sector and contains a quality circuit of problems mostly with good landings. The area is reached by descending the most northerly path described in the various guides – i.e. the non-roped descent. Then following the coastline north for a couple of hundred metres, to meet an obvious block on flat platform.

The sector centres on a good two-sided (climbable sides) block on a platform, in front of the sea. With numerous other blocks located on either side. There are also a few newly developed blocks on the way to and just past the Old Buoys Circuit.

It is obvious that many of these blocks will have been climbed on before, however it seems unlikely that the harder and more modern, highball style problems, will have been previously sent. As such most of the problems fitting this description, have been claimed as new climbs. If you have knowledge of previous ascents please get in touch via the Feedback page of the site, and we will amend any appropriate FA details.

There is also a basic interim topo guide for the area available here. Some of the newer lines are not included, however most problems are listed.

Below are the descriptionsfor many of the better new problems:

Bee to a Honey Pot, SDS (7b/V8)
This is on the way to the Old Buoys Circuit from Apiary Wall. A stunning arete, immediately north of the northern descent path. Starts with a really powerful pull up from the obvious flake and into the gentle arete. Stand-up is 6a/V2 (image top right).
F.A. Tom Peckitt

Lost Buoys, SDS (7c/V9)
This is located on a lone block in a jumble, part-way between the descent and the Old Buoy's Circuit. Start down to the right, undercutting the block with a right heel on, then do some powerful slaps up the slopey ramp.
F.A. Tom Peckitt

Big Buoy, SDS (7b/V8)
Situated an the small craglet behind the Platform Block, this is without doubt one of the best lines at St. Bees Head North. The stand-up is 7a+/V7.
F.A. Greg Chapman

Bad Buoyz, SDS (7b+/V8)
A big roof just north of the Platform Block. Starting standing up (on the left) with a good flake for both hands, throw a heel up and begin traversing the big fin along some decent crimps. Then go round the end of the fin and join the top at the otherside, and climb all the way to the furthest point.
F.A. Tom Peckitt

The Argo, SDS (7a/V6)
The fantastic blunt arete, a few metres left of Big Buoy. Start from sitting on the right and climb direct. Once topped-out, lower yourself off and jump down.
F.A. Greg Chapman

Old Buoys Traverse, SDS (6c+/V5)
The obvious left to right lip traverse of the awesome laser-cut block, finishing up the arete with poor footholds. Probably been done before but worth a mention.

Scylla, SDS (7b+/V8)
Located on a block 100m or so north of the Old Buoys Circuit. Climb the cool bulging wall on nice holds, facing seaward, started from a block.
F.A. Greg Chapman

Many of these lines are featured in the St. Bees Head - North Gallery.