Warton Revisited

Written by LakesBloc Wednesday, 02 April 2008 00:00

Nick Clement and Greg Chapman have added a number of new additions to Warton Pinnacle Crag. At Plum Buttress Nick climbed an obvious variation on Voodoo People: Voodoo Magic (7c/V9) climbs to the lip and then takes the left most line on the headwall via small holds to the break. Also on Plumb Buttress Greg added a cool new roof problem to the right of Voodoo People. This starts at an obvious square undercut and blast direct through the roof before linking into the hanging flack line of Sugarfix to give E-Fix (7c/V9). The duo also added Poison (7c/V9), another obvious gap which climbs Voodoo People to the lip then follows the lip rightward to and up Sugarfix.

West across the hillside, at Black Buttress, Greg added Black Light (7b+/V8) [Subsequent info from John Gaskins, tells us that Black Light may have been climbed by John in the 90's]. This tackles the wall immediately right of the central crack from sitting and is truly top draw! For full details and images of these problems and all the others at the venue see the new topo located on the Warton Crag page.