Lion Heart

Written by LakesBloc Saturday, 06 May 2006 00:00

A few new additions have recently been added to the Kentmere circuit. At Little Font Greg Chapman climbed the obvious line on the subsidiary lip of the Giant Stone. This starts as for Reverence then immediately swings up into the lip and traverses leftward to the right side of the vague gully and finishes up this, giving Supercalifrjalistic-epialigobalistic, 7a/V6, this saw a quick repeat from Dave Westlake, who confirmed the grade. At the Garburn Pass Boulder Greg also added a left hand finish to Paradigm; this breaks out left from the lip up the headwall - rather than direct up the groove. Despite being slightly harder than the original problem this is still 7c/V9. Finally, at the Valley of the Kings Greg cleaned up a superb traverse on a previously undocumented block, which lies just east of Boulder 2 (LakesBloc guide) and can be clearly seen from the Garburn Pass. Greg commented that this was probably the best problem at the VotK and a real gem! The problem takes in around 10m of climbing on bomber pinches, slopers and a weird and uncomfortable v-shaped crimp. Keeping with the kings theme the problem has been named Lion Heart and is steady 7b+/V8.