Light Fantastic & Pit Fight
Written by LakesBloc Monday, 27 February 2006 00:00
Greg Chapman has climbed a couple of new problems at venues at opposite ends of the LB coverage zone. The first of which was on the Eskdale granite and climbed a couple of weeks back. We thought it prudent to check with local guru Phil Wake whether or not the line had already been climbed, and it turns out probably not. Therefore Light Fantastic (7a/V6) climbs the groove of what was Project 4 at the Gem area, from sitting via a powerful pull and some sharp gaston's to a reasonable hold and up.
The second problem is at Thorn Crag, on a boulder which is probably the most accessible block at the entire venue! Regulars to the crag will have no doubt noticed the obvious undercut block up and left of the track on the final sharp bend just before the last steep section, before reaching the shooting hut. This block is already the home of a superb (5+/V1) right to left break traverse finishing up the prow. It is also now the vendor of a fine new line. This starts matched on a crimp at the back of the roof, after a stern pull-on reach out to the lip, stabilize, and make a blind slap for the break. Now match the break and dyno direct to the top of the block – Pit Fight 7a+/V7.