Moreau's Island

Written by LakesBloc Saturday, 07 January 2006 00:00

Greg Chapman reports climbing a new "top notch" traverse in Hyning Wood (a small limestone venue between Warton and Yealand). The traverse is essentially a reverse of the established classic Transgenic (8a/V11). The new line would not have been possible until strong winds (at the end of last winter) blew over the large tree situated on the top left of the buttress, whose roots had smothered all possible finishing holds. With the large Ent slain Chapman completed the now compelling right to left line starting at the finishing point of Transgenic (i.e. where you rock up to the break). From here traverse leftward to the obvious first joint finger ledge on the far left of the buttress, now a dynamic lunge to a slopey edge and flexible legs are all you need to reach a good finishing hold. Transgenic was marred only by the block hindering the last couple of moves, the new line gets this slight awkwardness out of the way early doors to leave you with some of the best climbing UK limestone has to offer - Moreau's Island 8a/V11.