Axions Boogaloo

Written by LakesBloc Monday, 14 November 2005 00:00

Following almost three weeks of unrelenting wet weather the Lakes was at last given some respite in the shape of a gloriously crisp autumnal Sunday. Of course after such dismal weather finding a venue with not only dry rock, but also landings not looking like a mangrove swamp, can prove a little taxing. Step forward Sampson's (mighty) Stones! The elevated status and well ventilated position of these imperfect orbs seems a perfect formula for an instant fix after a prolonged monsoon-like spell. And so it was that Nick Davey and Greg Chapman went forth and indulged in some vintage blocsport. After that sort of build I suspect you're thinking "they better have done something worthwhile!" The initial remit was to check some route descriptions, grades and missing links for the forthcoming bouldering guide, all of which were done with gusto, although more importantly (from a news point of view at least) a classic line was straightened out and improved. The problem in question was Axions which under its original guise, finished out right on an impeccably rough slopping flatty before rocking to victory. For the new direct version you climb as for the original problem but on reaching the highest good edge with your right hand step high left onto a cleaned edge, now move your left hand into a small niche'd side-pull before making a dynamic lunge for the top of the block. Due to it's slightly morpho start moves the original problem weighed in at 7a+/V7, so its seems appropriate that Axions Boogaloo (the new direct version) would be in the 7b/V8 ballpark, from standing the finishing lunge makes an entertaining 7a/V6 in it's own right.