Embargo

Written by LakesBloc Saturday, 28 May 2005 00:00

At Crag X, in the South Lakes, Greg Chapman has climbed the obvious bulge project between Alien Head and the finishing groove of Danny's Lip. The problem starts sitting from a reasonable (if a bit slopey) hold with the left hand, and an obvious small tilted crimp with your right. Pull on and slap out right to small positive hold on the lip, now surmount the bulge via (amongst other moves) a calculated snatch for the cleaned one-pad nubbins, a sharp crimp and a balancy rock-over, finish at the vague break - Embargo 7b+/V8.

Greg also managed a tricky link of Danny's Lip into his new problem, reckoning it to be a fair bit harder than the original version of DL but still in the 7c/V9 bracket.