Wrynose Action Plus BIG Dyno

Written by LakesBloc Tuesday, 17 May 2005 00:00

After seeing the recent activities in the Wrynose Pass area of the Lakes, Martin Dale recalled a few nice sounding problems in the area which he did back in July 2003! Martin gives the low down - "Boulder 1. GR:275026. Park at the very top of Wrynose and walk towards Cockley Beck. As soon as the tarmac starts going downhill strike off diagonally up the hill to the left. Two boulders will come into view in about a minute. Both have striking aretes. The lefthand overhanging one is Wry Nose 5/V1 from standing, 6b/V3 sit start. It's a really superb classic problem with a hard reach/dyno start from sitting off the obvious hold, then quality yarding up to the top on good holds. The right hand arete is 6a+/V2 from a sit start on it's left side off the fairly obvious finger edge and passing the strange bulbous lump on the way. To the right is a steep slab with two further problems, lefthand slab, 6a+/V2, and righthand 5/V1, both from standing.

Boulder 2, "Wrynose Dubs". GR:264024
Drive down Wrynose Pass towards Cockley Beck. Park near where a footpath sign and a stile appears on the right side of the road. Cross the stream and follow the footpath to below the obvious boulder up to the right, a couple of mins from the road. Problems described from left to right: 1. The Left Edge. 4/V0. Follow the left edge of the front face from just left of the steepness. 2. sit start just to the right on the front face, fingers in a couple of slots, make a fierce pull for a better slot then rightwards to a slopey finish. 6b/V3. The main line just right again is unclimbed but dirty. More potential problems further right before the right arete of the steep front face: this is: Dub Wah 6c/V4, maybe just 6c+/V5? from a sit start, 6b/V3 from standing. Start with fingers in small slots, feet under the bulge. Climb the arete mostly on it's right side with a swing round to the left side to finish. Beware, tricky pull over. This is a classic problem. Further right again up the slope lies The Back Passage 6c+/V5. Start sat down in an obvious niche. A good flat hold is used with a contorted egyptian to latch some fiercely painful micro edges and then up to the capping roof. There is potential here for more stuff, link ups etc."

On Red Wall at Trowbarrow Quarry, human clothes prop, Tom Burns used his massive frame to span the huge distance between the short break and the sloping shelf in the Nicks Problem area of the crag giving the eliminate but obvious 6 foot Sicks 7c/V9. Nice one Tom!