Isla de Encanta Repeated

Written by LakesBloc Monday, 06 September 2004 00:00

Yesterday saw bushy haired pocket rocket, Mark Katz upgrade his "Welsh raider" status to "Lancashire Legend" with his blistering second ascent of Isla de Encanta 8b/V13.

First climbed by John Gaskins in 1999 this explosive Trowbarrow testpiece has lain relatively untouched, despite an appearance in OTE magazine and on the bouldering video Stick It. Rumour has it that not even Tim Clifford could light the blue touchpaper on this one! Enter Mark Katz (via the M6)…

After a fair few successful visits to other crags in the area (see previous news reports), Mark found himself at Trowbarrow, primed and ready to add to his growing list of hard ticks. But The Enchanted Isle doesn't give up its secrets so easily, and its magic resisted our hero's initial attempts. Trip after long haul trip was dedicated to breaching the Isle's defences, and trip by trip they were gradually worn down. Third visit saw the crux move to the ledge go down – it was "on".

4th visit, £160 down on petrol, and full time work again the next day, Mark was in a mental pressure cooker – he had to get on the Isle! The day was muggy and warm; terrible conditions for holding the shoddy crux pinch. But it was now or never. First go, tips on the ledge. Second go, well over it – ohh! So close. Third go, no. Too greasy on the pinch. It was starting to slip away. Thin skin off the crimp. One more try. Got the pinch, good, OK. Throw for the ledge – hit it! Swing out……swing in…out…in, come on – yes, got the top! The screams of relief were heard for many miles around as Mark bopped with joy, atop his Enchanted Isle. Well done indeed.

Another Lakes loving Welsh raider is Chris Davies who has just grabbed the third ascent of the "Back-hand Roof" 8a/V11 at Crag X.