Il Pirata

Written by LakesBloc Wednesday, 18 February 2004 00:00

John Gaskins Reports: last Friday I did the line out of the 'cave' on the boulder at Trowbarrow, which I've tried on and off for a number of years. Low sit start with both hands 'in' the obvious edge, out to an intermediate edge/layaway then go again to obviously small edge/pinch, followed by a (very) hard move to the good layaway/edge from which you can get the lip with your left. Once matched on the lip it seems most logical to reach rightwards along the lip to the jug on the 'original 7b/V8' [Pit Problem] then rock round onto the slab.

Name: Il Pirata.
Grade!!?? Undecided but I think that it is maybe 8c/V15. Most of the climbing (i.e. the last 9 moves) is pretty reasonable. In total it's 13 moves to get stood up on the slab, the first 2 moves are quite hard/powerful but the third move!!?? My success rate on it is under 1%!! The fourth move is tricky but 'easier'.