St. Bees Head South & Lime Updates
Written by Greg Chapman Tuesday, 21 June 2016 22:07
With the reasonably dry weather of late I’ve also been trucking about on the lime and sandstone quite a bit over the last few weeks, checking problems and also adding a few new lines here and there. Here’s some of the better/more noteworthy additions, firstly at St. Bees Head - South.
The Hateful Eight (7B+) A superb new problem on a previously undocumented clean, undercut wall, which itself is only two or three hundred metres from the beach and (now) the first documented sector reached. Ths problem tackles the obvious central line; starting with holds on the lip make a tough move to conjoined pockets - which make the ‘Hateful Eight’ hold - pull up and head direct to the top and over. FA VIDEO
The Quick and the Dead (7B+) On the same wall this climb tackles the left side of the wall, between the previous problem and a steep 4+ corner with a grubby start. Stating matched on pocket above the lip campus up to a sloper then head direct to the break on poor pockets and a sidepull. Once at the break either move left to finish up the aforementioned corner or right to finish as per The Hateful Eight (harder). This is brilliant and features superb rock and moves. Image right. FA VIDEO
GT Turbo (7B+) A short but awkward problem up the obvious arete to the rear of the Toxic Crusader block. Starts RH in a carved ‘G’ and left low on the arete. Pull on and make a couple of hard moves to reach a pocket on the right and then the break. The starting right foot is usually damp but it's positive enough for this to make little difference.
Panic Attack (7A+/B) An obvious but somewhat terrifying challenge up the high front face of the huge square cut block at the base of the slope, just before you reach the sector featuring the Whale Boulder. Whilst I’ve patiod the landing, a cool head is still required for the top out! A word of caution; all the crucial holds are solid but there are a few friable edges up high which are best avoided. Image below.
Whale Dyno SDS (7A) A sitter to the existing problem on the Whale Boulder.
Bilge Rat Low (7A+/B) This tackles a direct line up from the beginning of Red Whale Extension, also on the Whale Boulder, starting on two undercut pockets below the low roof and make a tough, tensiony slap to the lip then straight up the short wall to finish.
The Beluga Waltz (7B) Finally on the Whale Boulder, this is a direct of the 'whale’s nose' from a low sitter and with a brutal mantle finish. You have to stick direct all the way for the full grade - no veering right or left at the top. A tight but very decent line.
Crescent Sun (6C+) Actually did this a while ago and forgot about it. It resides on the terrace wall 25m left of Davey Jones’ Locker and climbs the central crescent seam feature from sitting to a thin break.
And on the limestone...
Finally, I climbed a real rarity in the shape of a new non-eliminate line on Red Wall in Trowbarrow quarry. Spring Loaded (7B!) tackles a somewhat highball line a metre or so left of Yin Yang via a committing but really fun dyno over the pit - fine with a few pads. Image right.