Carrock & Granite Updates
Written by Greg Chapman Tuesday, 14 June 2016 00:00
As ever sending machine Dan Varian has been busy plying his trade over the last few months. Amongst the numerous new lines he’s climbed around the UK, he has added a number of noteworthy new problems in the Lakes.
Image right: Dan Varian climbing Grain Spotting (7C), on the Eskdale Granite.
Everything I’m aware of is either at Carrock Fell or on the Eskdale granite, so starting with Carrock here goes:
On the Mosdale Boulders Dan did some work on the landing of the Mexican Rumble Block removing the big block behind it in the landing zone and further building up the patio. As a result he then climbed the underside/LH side of the prow from sitting not using any blocks for feet and starting on a nice pinch and an obvious crimp. This is around the hard 7C mark, whilst linking this LHS sitter without the blocks into Mexican Rumble is hard 7C+ and apparently features some really nice climbing. No name(s) as yet.
Over in central chaos of the main crag, Dan has added a number of fine new additions.
Shredder (7B+) This is located on the Moai Boulder just right of Beebop & Rocksteady. It starts from sitting with your LH on the Bebop start hold and ‘techs’ its way rightwards to finish up the lichenous arete above.
Knight Shifts (8A) This superb and crimpy affair lies on Kit’s Boulder. It starts on the diagonal rail in the centre of the east face before traversing leftwards to finish up Kit’s Arete. Image below.
Meconium (7C) Finally, for the Carrock additions, this delightfully named climb (look it up- yuk!) resides on a previously undocumented boulder situated between Punk’s Life and Get a Grip. The line tackles the niched overhang direct starting on a double-handed jug at the back. Once at the lip glorious slopes lead to the top....maybe wait for winter with this one!
Over in the west Dan’s new Eskdale climbs are also well worth a shout.
Grain Spotting (7C) This climbs the the blank looking bulge just right of The Lion on the Animal Boulder from standing.
Bear Good (7B) This takes the line a metre or so right of Grain Spotting, also from standing, and looks very tricky! FA VIDEO
Kookookerchoo (7A+) A fab looking climb up the corner above a ledge residing on the small crag directly above the Animal Boulder. This goes from a standing start. FA VIDEO
Irrational Thinking (7C+) This is Rational Thinking on The Diamond but without the use of the block to the right side of the crack for your feet.
Also in Eskdale, on the Afro Boulder, I climbed the short but sweet prow on the uphill end of the block to give Alpha Go. A smart little 7A/+ which is certainly worth a look if you're at the sector. FA VIDEO