Carrock Updates & ToeJam Topo

The late winter months and early part of spring have seen some more good developments at Carrock Fell. In particular, the recently overhauled ToeJam Boulder (listed as the Disappointing Boulder in the various guides) has seen further attention to both its landing and roster of problems. Dan Varian put in a sterling effort on the landing, and the base of block now offers a pleasant terrace which with pads offers a near perfect landing. Dan also did some work on the top of the block, removing heather and turf, to ensure all the lines can now be topped out. Having completed his groundwork Dan added a number of hard additions to the block, whilst Rich Lanham also nipped in to add a neat little 7A+ (Log Jam) up the far right side of the front face. I have knocked up a topo which now shows and describes all the problems on this great boulder...

  1. Lost in Space 7C: Start LH on the big edge and RH on sidepull/undercut, head direct up the prow via some powerful moves and top out direct.
  2. Space Bum 8A: Obvious sitter into Lost in Space, starting with good high LH edge and RH on right angled crimp. Shorties may need doubled up pads to reach the LH starting edge.
  3. Lost in Deep Space 8A+: Space Bum into ToeJam then finishing up Mission to Earth.
  4. Sat in Space 8A+: A low sit start from down in the hollow: start RH on a low positive edge and LH on a right angle crimp on the arete, make hard moves to join Lost in Space.
  5. ToeJam & Earl 7C: A quality rising line, starting on the left side of the block (small LH crimp & RH slot-pinch) pull up and traverse rightwards passing the awesome fin feature to a tensiony finish up the far right side of the block.
  6. Space Jam 8A+: Space Bum into Toejam & Earl.
  7. Funkotron 7C+/8A: From matched on the big edge head out leftwards up the crack line. Awkward.
  8. Panic on Funkotron 8B: A sit start from down in the hollow (lh right angle crimp, rh low pinch block) head up the bad edges to the big matchable one then out left via some very weird tension moves to a hard finish. Visually follows the crack-line.
  9. Mission to Earth 6B: The superb fin feature starting with hands at it base.
  10. Lone Crusader 7A+: SDS Directly up the finish of ToeJam & Earl from sitting below a large lay away.
  11. Mission Control f6C+: Start at the base of Lone Crusader and move up then left into Mission to Earth to finish.
  12. Cruzer 7B+: Start at the base of Lone Crusader and move up and left to the fin feature and traverse left, reversing ToJam & Earl, to summit out up Lost in Space.
  13. Log Jam 7A: Head up the flakes just right of the big flake, then mantle direct once reaching the slot on the lip via a tricky undercling.


+2 #2 Dan V 2016-12-22 12:42
Nothing has been destroyed, a few small boulders have been turned over. 3 square metres of an entire hillside of talus. Humans have an impact on every landscape and bouldering is hugely minimal. The changes here cannot be seen other than when you are 2 metres away from the boulder and even then few people can actually tell what's been done. As someone who sometimes works in oil and gas im sure you can realise that all holier than thou posts employ a huge element of hypocrisy in relation to the environment. The management of lake district footpaths is on a scale millions of times greater to that which has been done here. The changes are talus on talus. If turning over four or five large stones is "destroying" a landscape you must be in a world of misery wherever you look. Selective acceptance of human impact for what you like to do but criticism of anything else is a bit harsh. Maybe visit the site, see what's been done. suggest a better alternative other than boulderers not existing.
-6 #1 Jonathan Hughes 2016-09-28 20:03
I am concerned about the landscaping of what are essentialy wild places. These small corners of our home have been protected from farming sheep trafic and then the bouderers come and change an environment which has been basically undisturbed for centuries. Think please before you destroy. Is climbing that important?!
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