Further Lad Stones Developments

Written by Greg Chapman Friday, 28 September 2012 13:11

Some more Lad Stones, Tilberthwaite developments to report.

First up, Ben Freeman has climbed a really cool problem on the Wartstarter Face of the Panorama Stone: Axis (7C/V9) tackles the upper central section of the face linking in from the lower half of Warstarter, via a tough cross-over move to gain the last small crimp on WS (usually used with your RH) with your LH before continuing into the middle of the face and finishing direct.

Image: Ben Freeman making the FA of Axis 7C.

I also added a few more worthwhile inclusions, with the most notable additions being a direct version of Tom Newberry's excellent Underground Butler (also on the Panorama Stone), which climbs the line directly via a thin crack (and neat finger jam) straight to the ledge, rather than veering off left at half height as per the original. This is originally named Crack Butler (7B+/V8). On the same face I spent a fair amount of time, energy and skin sending the infuriatingly morpho sit/block start to Artois. This starts sitting on the block to the right and uses a good RH edge, reasonable LH side pull and foot smears/dinks to make a whopping cross-over to a good edge, where the stand up start begins. For me this was at least 7C/V9, however the tall will no doubt find it a cinch, whilst shortys may as well not bother!

Finally, after patioing out the landing, myself and Ben also re-climbed Nick Clement's brilliant problem, Stella, after the demise/deterioration of some minor holds. Whilst a fraction tougher the line still sits within 7C territory. I then added the obvious link from the base of Stella into Artois, to leave Wife Beater which makes for yet another excellent 7B+/V8.