Suns of Temper

Written by Greg Chapman Friday, 30 March 2012 12:46

The Dan Varian Express rumbles on and having relocated back up North, he's been busting out some very impressive first ascents over in his favourite stomping ground of Northumberland. Between sessions in The County he's also found time to visit a few of his old hangouts in the Lakes as well as finding time to visit pastures new further south, in the shape of a misty foray to the superb Thorn Crag. Despite less than favourable conditions Dan managed a quick repeat of the John Gaskins' classic Return of the Fly on the Upper Tier of the crag. This is thought to be the second ascent of this amazing problem, which has repelled attempts from a number of very able climbers.

Image: Dan Varian making the first ascent of Suns of Temper. © Michele Caminati.

Further north, Dan made a trip to the ever-popular St. Bees Head. Whilst enjoying the usual chilled atmosphere of the crag and showing visiting Italian strongman Michele Caminati the finer side of British bouldering, Dan found time to repeat Trailer Trash, Tom Newberry's recent addition, (confirming the grade as steady 7c+/V10) as well as climbing a fine looking new problem near the Apiary Wall circuit. Suns of Temper (7c+/V10) is located on a large undercut block directly beneath the Apiary Wall descent (Decent B in the LakesBloc guide) and starts off a raised block to the right of the main boulder. You then follow the white seam leftward before surmounting the block up the centre right of the face.

Good stuff Dan, keep em' coming...