Carrock Project Falls & Honister Additions

Written by Greg Chapman Friday, 29 July 2011 14:38

Whilst still low key by the standards of the Peak and North Wales a steady buzz of activity has reverberated through the Lakeland ether over the past year or two. Small pockets of keen activists have coalesced at either end of the National Park whilst long standing members of the climbing community have relaxed their tight lips and let slip their activities. This 'interest from within' for the more new school  bouldering delights, outside the historical destinations of the Bowderstone, Langdale Boulders, Apiary Wall (St. Bees) etc., is great to see, and is most particularly highlighted by the number of repeats of forgotten or far flung test pieces seen of late. The steady increase in interest observed in the bouldering scene has also been mirrored on the routing front, as the compact but die hard cast of Lakeland regulars has been bolstered by numerous keen youths and re-galvanized old hands, culminating in various impressive top-end repeats and first ascents from the likes of Adam Hocking and Callum Storry. Anyway eulogy over, we have a few fine looking new additions (which incidentally epitomise the previous sermon) to report from the north lakes...

Right: Rich Lanham on Bebop & Rocksteady, Carrock Fell.

At Carrock Fell, Rich Lanham has climbed a couple of new problems on the collection of blocks directly up and left (as faced) of Kitt's Boulder. Most notable is Rich's ascent of the impressive central arete/prow (described as a project in the current topo), for which he has also partially cleared/sorted what was a slightly unfriendly landing zone. Rich gives the beta: "Start sitting in the small triangular cave with both hands on the positive edges just out of the cave and a toe hooked in a positive cut-out at the back. Now pull up and slap up to a couple of slopers and once you have sorted you feet and hands out, go across to the arete. Once there swing around using some positive edges and up the arete on the left side to the top." This is Bebop and Rocksteady and goes at around the 7b+/V8 mark.

Rich also climbed, in unconventional style, the NE face of the small block, dissected by an obvious low break, just left of  the Bebop and Rocksteady block from sitting, to give Hang 10. Whilst difficult to grade Rich felt 7a/V6 was about right.

Right: Toby Wright climbing Toby's Razor, High Rock Honister Pass.

Over in the Honister Pass, Toby Wright, Ben & Jon Freeman and Sam Bartum had some fun working out the various variation finishes to the harder lines on the downhill face of the High Rock. Toby reports the best of the bunch being a direct finish to Occam's Razor – finish straight up, rather than veering left at the lip. Ben Freeman repeated this new variation (Toby's Razor), which, as with Occam's, goes at 7c/V9. Also of note, was an extension to Fallen Idol by Jon Freeman, this continues along the lip as per Iain's Lip but finishes as per Toby's Razor, rather than Occam's. This is Bone Idol, and weighs in at around 7b+/V8 mark.