Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside

Written by Greg Chapman Sunday, 03 July 2011 08:19

Thanks to a revived summer spell, over the last week or so, more crags have begun to dry out and the limited choice of venues seen over the last few weeks has started to expand.

Whilst out for a circuiting session yesterday, and in spite of the Mediterranean like conditions, I managed what I think are a couple of new problems at the far end of Fleswick Bay. The lines in question are a left hand and right hand start to the same striking prow, situated above its own mini platform, 50m right of the last problems described in the Rockfax Lakes Bouldering guide.

The Trash Vortex (7a+/V7) is the RH side of the prow, starting sitting and matched in a break on the back wall, pull on and reach out to a crack and good side pull low on the prow. Now follow lip slopers to the arête and climb it direct via a superb and dynamic finish. Image below.

Vortex LH (7a+/V7) again starts sitting but this time matched on a sloping edge low on the LH side of the prow. With feet on the back wall pull on and make tricky crossover to a positive diagonal edge, rearrange your feet and bust a big cut loose throw to the sloping lip on the right side of the prow and finish direct up the arête via the same last moves as The Trash Vortex. Both lines are classic (2 or 3 stars) and would be well combined with a trip to the excellent Fleswick Boulders, as neither are particularly effected by seepage, unlike the rest of Flewsick Bay.