Outlander

Written by Greg Chapman Tuesday, 31 May 2011 12:13

I've climbed a few noteworthy additions at St. Bees Head – North. The probable new lines in question are located on a large, quality block 500m north of the Old Buoy's Circuit. The boulder is surrounded by a jumble of other sizeable blocks, however the number of problems with good landings is a bit limited. That said there are a handful of nice easier climbs and one absolute classic...

Outlander (7b+/V8) climbs the seaward facing roof come wall of the large obvious central boulder, and takes in a superb mix of burly roof tactics, tricky mantling, and delicate wall climbing, and is, in my view at least, a contender for best problem of its grade at the crag! The beta: start at the back of the roof on good holds and a useful heel-toe. Make a couple of big moves direct to the lip, before slapping up to a sloping shelf above. Now either employ your best technique to deploy a stern mantle to the high sloping edge on the headwall above, or alternately throw for said edge. Finally, thrutch your way into a standing position and utilize the blunt arête to pad your way to a most satisfying of top outs.

Also well worthy of a mention is the eye-catching left trending ramp line which can be climbed starting as for Outlander, but veering left along the lip after the intial roof section. Where the ramp fades out (at a good pocket) take a direct line up the left side of the wall. This is The Queen Anne's Revenge, 7a+/V7.

I have marked the location of the boulder on this map and there is a topo of the block here.