St. Bees Keeps on Giving

Written by LakesBloc Sunday, 07 February 2010 15:15

We have a few more new problems to report, from the seemingly endless supply at St. Bees Head – South. The new lines were climbed over the last couple of weekends, and are located at the far end of the crag.

First up, we have four new offerings on a superb clean wall, at the very furthest extremities of what has yet been recorded. Sinbad’s Wall, is situated approximately 100m past the Liberty’s End boulder – home of super classic Iron Hide – and offers some brilliant highballs, over a perfect flat landing, in a familiar picture perfect setting. A word of caution the wall does take a little drainage, so if it’s been raining the day before your visit, I wouldn’t bother making the effort.

Image right: Tom Newberry making the second ascent of Triassic Park (7b/V8).

Working from left to right we initially have a superb lay-backing crack line going at around 4/V0, an intimidating direct line of crimps, pockets and shallow scoops follows this, but is currently a project. Starting as for the project but veering right at half height, to a dish then to the top, is a well worthwhile 7a/V6, called The 7^th Voyage. Next we have a direct version of the previous problem, i.e. starting directly below the high dish. This is Sinbad, and it goes at around the 6c+/V5 mark.

The following problem (FA Tom Newberry) is called Hector and is another high and involved piece of wall climbing. This is not too hard until half height, where upon some committing climbing on small holds is needed to reach the ledge. Tom has graded this 7a+/V7, however this may become a little easier with traffic, as the top holds were a bit sandy. Finally, on this wall, we have another high, thin and involved project, which is followed by the current climb of the wall: Triassic Park (7b/V8), climbs the face on the far right direct - gain a two-fingered pocket and make a stretched move to a sumptuous sloper system and follow this diagonally up and right to top-out in a hanging niche. Again, the difficulty of this line may ease with traffic.

Image left: Greg Chapman on Californium (7b/V8).

The last new line is situated on the Yellow Stone, which itself is located equidistant between The Cryptozoo and Liberty’s End boulder. Californium (7b/V8) climbs the steep, board-like, seaward face of the block direct. Start sitting with blocks at the back for feet, and use undercuts to make a big stretch to a RH pocket in the centre of the face, now climb direct to a slightly intimidating finish.