Toxic Yellowcake

Written by LakesBloc Sunday, 24 January 2010 13:52

Despite the recent damp weather we have a couple more new additions to the currently in vogue St Bees Head – South.

On the two blocks known as ‘The Pair’ (on the overview Google Map) a fine new line has been climbed on the right hand boulder. Toxic Crusader (7a+/V7) starts sitting at an interestingly formed ‘shell-like’ side pull and poor pocket, before pulling on and making a hard move to a double-handed undercut, out right, and continuing direct up the blunt prow. Much of the difficulty in this line revolves around the first tensiony move, if a more efficient sequence is found this may decrease the difficulty substantially.

Further north the appealing keel like feature of the ‘Yellow Stone’ has been climbed to give, Yellowcake, 7c/V9. This starts as low as possible in a small cave, pulling on with difficulty and following the super steep hanging arête into the centre of the yellow tinged diamond shaped face. The crux is attaining a good edge, high on the centre left of the face.

Image: Greg Chapman on Yellowcake 7c/V9.

Guide Update: The guide for St. Bees Head - South has been updated to feature these and all the other recent notable additions to the crag. St. Bees Head - South page.